jumpsuit TOFO | pattern hack

written by Erin Paige

Summer jumpsuit TOFO. The ultimate summer pattern. It’s sexy without being revealing, it’s comfortable even on the hottest days, it looks great on a multitude of body shapes and sizes.  I personally love how it creates a waist and a longer torso on my petite mom bod. But the best part? The TOFO is hackable in at least one million ways (trust me, I counted!)

I’m Erin Paige and I was thrilled to be chosen by Meghann to write a guest post for Halfmoon ATELIER. Today I will show you how to hack the summer jumpsuit TOFO into a summer dress. The dress has a hem curved into a side split and tie straps.

STEP 1 : MAKE SURE IT FITS
I would highly recommend making the jumpsuit pattern first, or at least a test garment, so you can make any fitting adjustments needed before your hacking ensues.

STEP 2 : GATHER YOUR SUPPLIES
You’ll need:

• TOFO Pattern Pieces : 5 - Shorts Front, 6 - Shorts Back, and 7 - Pocket
• Paper - I used Swedish Tracing Paper, but any large pieces of paper will do
• Markers or pencils in 3 colors (I'm using blue, orange and black pens)
• Straight Ruler
• Curved Ruler (or anything round like a plate or bowl)
• Tape Measure
• Notepad
• Scissors for cutting paper

STEP 3 : TAKE YOUR MEASUREMENTS
Take the following measurements and make note of them:

Center Front from waistline (this pattern hits below the natural waist) to desired length. Add seam allowance; ⅞ inch at waist + ⅝ inch for hem. I measured from 2 inches below my belly button.

Center Back from waistline to desired length. Add seam allowance; ⅞ inch at waist + ⅝ inch for hem. I wanted a high/low hem so this measurement is longer than the center front.

Side Seam from hip bone to desired length. Add seam allowance; ⅞ inch at waist. There is no need to add hem allowance to this measurement.

The elastic waist on the finished garment will make your hem slightly adjustable. It’s a good idea to overestimate the length and trim the fabric later if needed.  I ended up trimming the skirt a bit.

STEP 4 : DRAW GUIDELINES FOR SKIRT FRONT
Use your blue marker and straight ruler to draw 2 long perpendicular lines (2 lines at a right angle) on your paper. The vertical line should be at least as long as your Center Front measurement.

STEP 5 : TRACE PATTERN PIECE 5
We will start by using the Shorts Front pattern piece to draft our Skirt Front. Place pattern piece 5 on your paper and line up the center front crotch seam line at the corner of your blue guidelines. Use your orange marker to trace around the Shorts Front, making sure to transfer the pleat markings and the side seam notch.

STEP 6 : DRAW ANOTHER GUIDELINE
Use your blue marker to draw a vertical line, perpendicular to the waistline and touching the corner of the side seam at pocket. Measure this line and make a mark at your Side Seam Measurement.

STEP 7 : DRAW NEW CENTER FRONT LINE
Use your black marker to draw a line parallel to the blue guideline running through the Center Front of Shorts Front. The black line should be ⅝ inch to the left of that guideline. This is to remove the seam allowance, as we will be cutting the Skirt Front on the fold.  Add a 2 inch perpendicular line at the bottom of the center front line, squaring off the hem line at center front.

STEP 8 : TRACE WAISTLINE AND POCKET LINE
Use your black marker to trace over the waistline and pocket seam line of Shorts Front. It’s also a good time to trace over the pleat markings in black. All of these markings are the same for the new Skirt Front as they are for the original Shorts Front.

STEP 9 : DRAW NEW SIDE SEAM
Use your black marker and straight ruler to draw a straight line from the pocket corner to the length or your Side Seam measurement. Transfer side seam notch. We are removing the curve of the Shorts Front Side Seam for movement in the skirt. The shaping will come from the pleats in the final garment. Don’t worry, if the shorts fit as they should on your test garment, your new skirt will fit, too!

STEP 10 : DRAW CURVED HEM
Use your curved ruler and black marker to draw a curved line joining the side seam line to the 2 inch line where you began your hem at center front. Make a mark to remind yourself where to stop sewing the side seam and to back tack. This mark is where your side split will begin. 

NOTE: My mark is wrong in the photo. I actually stopped about 1 inch above this mark. 

STEP 11 : LABEL, LABEL, LABEL
Be sure to label your pattern with all necessary information, including seam allowance notes, pattern name, cutting information, size information and grainline. I also numbered my Skirt Front as “5b”, so when I’m cutting my TOFO, I know that I only need one pattern piece 5.

STEP 12 : REDRAFT POCKET
We are including the pocket from the original TOFO, however, because we straightened the side seam on the skirt, we need to do the same to the pocket. The TOFO has a one piece pocket that gets folded vertically, therefore it actually has 2 side seam lines. Use the same method as for the Skirt Front to draw perpendicular blue guidelines, trace pattern piece 7 in orange, trace waistline and pocket line from original pattern in black, draw 2 vertical lines in black to straighten side seam lines, and extend the bottom pocket line to each side seam in black. Transfer markings and notches. Label your new pocket.

STEP 13 : DRAW GUIDELINES FOR SKIRT BACK
Use your blue marker and straight ruler to draw 2 long perpendicular lines (2 lines at a right angle) on your paper, as you did for Skirt Front.  The vertical line should be at least as long as your Center Back measurement.

STEP 14 : TRACE PATTERN PIECE 6
We will use the Shorts Back pattern piece to draft our Skirt Back. Place pattern piece 6 on your paper and line up the center back crotch seam line at the corner of your blue guidelines. Use your orange marker to trace around the Shorts Back, making sure to transfer side seam notch.

STEP 15 : DRAW ANOTHER GUIDELINE
Use your blue marker to draw a vertical line, perpendicular to the upper blue guideline and touching the outer curve of the side seam line. Measure this line and make a mark at your Side Seam Measurement.

STEP 16 : DRAW NEW CENTER BACK LINE
Use your black marker to draw a line parallel to the blue guideline that runs through the Center Front of Shorts Front. The black line should be ⅝ inch to the left of that guideline. This is to remove the seam allowance, as we will be cutting the Skirt Back on the fold.  Add a 2 inch perpendicular line at the bottom of the center back line, squaring off the hem line at center back.

STEP 17 : TRACE WAISTLINE AND A PORTION OF SIDE SEAM LINE 
Use your black marker to trace over the waistline and the side seam line above the side seam notch of Shorts Back. Unlike the Skirt Front, we are including the slight curve at the hip of the Shorts Back. Below the side seam notch, draw a straight black line, stopping at the mark that you made for your side seam measurement.

STEP 18 : DRAW CURVED HEM
Use your curved ruler and black marker draw a curved line joining the side seam line to the 2 inch line where you began your hem at center back. Make a mark to remind yourself where to stop sewing the side seam and to back tack. This mark should correspond to the mark you made on Skirt Front and is where your side split will begin. 

STEP 19 : LABEL, AGAIN
Big fan of labeling here! Be sure to label your pattern with all necessary information, including seam allowance notes, pattern name, cutting information, size information and grainline. I also numbered my Skirt Back as “6b”, so when I’m cutting my TOFO, I know that I only need one pattern piece 6.

STEP 20 : CUT OUT PATTERNS ON BLACK LINES
You may think the different colored markers was excessive, but the colors will help you distinguish which lines to cut. Cut out your patterns on the BLACK lines. Be sure to walk the front side seam to the back side seam, making any necessary adjustments to true up your pattern pieces. Now it’s time to admire your pattern hacking skills!

STEP 21 : CUT INTO YOUR FABRIC AND SEW UP YOUR DRESS
Use the wonderful TOFO instructions to construct your dress, ignoring any reference to sewing the crotch seam.

STEP 22 : SHOULDER TIE STRAPS
To make my shoulder tie straps, I simply doubled the cut amount from cut 2 to cut 4, and sewed as instructed. I then added just one button to one end of each strap, instead of a button to each end of each strap.

STEP 23 : TIME TO CELEBRATE
Wear your new make with pride! I think this style would look wonderful in an organic cotton gauze for a casual summer dress. I made mine in Tencel twill and think it will dress up nicely for a date with my hubby. However you decide to style it, be sure to share pictures with the sewing community!

On Instagram, use the tags #jumpsuitTOFO #TOFOhack #summerdressTOFO and #halfmoonATELIER. Tag Meghann @halfmoonatelier and I as well @luverinpaige. Also, check out my Pinterest Board for more TOFO inspiration. We can’t wait to see your TOFOs!

Erin learned to sew over 20 years ago, but has only recently become serious about it in the last two years. That was when she decided to stop making Halloween costumes for her three sons, and start sewing garments for herself. She also happens to have a degree in Fashion Design from the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising. She thinks that drafting sleeves is “the most, to say the least,” and speaks in movie quotes whenever possible. You can follow her sewing journey at @luverinpaige on Instagram. @luverinpaige on Instagram